Ornaments Past and Present

For the last several years I've made ornaments each Christmas that reflect a new skill I've learned or as a tribute to an artist I admire. I attach these to packages, give them away as favors at holiday parties and as hostess gifts, and keep a few to hang on our own tree.

 

In 2006 I was interested in needle tatting and made little beaded snowflakes and wreaths

In 2007 I was all about crazy quilting as I worked on a Victorian bed sized quilt similar to an antique one that my mother had from her mother. More on that here.

2008 was the year of wet felting. I was crocheting and wet felting everything in sight. If you would like to try making them, here is the pattern

I guess I must have skipped 2009, but by 2010, I was enamored or an embellishment technique I had learned from an article in Quilting Arts magazine. More on this idea here. 

And again in 2011, I totally stole this technique for a large size reverse trapunto quilt and used it for ornaments. Here is the blog post about the technique.

Last year a friend introduced me to Natalie Chanin, the awesome designer behind Alabama Chanin. After looking at her gorgeous apparel, how could I not make hand sewn cotton jersey ornaments. Natalie offers finished product, kits, and workshops, so take a look at her website.

This year I was a bit stumped for an idea, and then right around Thanksgiving I was looking at an email from Sew Daily right before going to sleep. The message included this image.

I'm one of those crazy people that problem solves in my sleep. Well of course I woke up in the middle of the night with an understanding of how I could make these.

It couldn't be easier. Use stiff double sided fusible interfacing and bond fabric on both sides of a sheet. Use a rotary circle cutter (or draw circles and cut them out by hand). I made mine about 3 1/2 inches. You will need a total of four circles for each ornament, but it you fuse up larger sheets, you can cut multiples of one fabric. I fused fat quarters (or scraps from other projects that were about that size) and was able to get  up to 16 circles out of each bonding effort. If you have a sewing machine that can handle a really thick stack, then stitch two of the circles together right down the middle (I used a vanishing marker to draw a line in the center of each circle from top to bottom). Now fold both of those circles back on themselves to make two sets of wings. Match up the remaining two circles with the previously sewn pieces and stitch down through all thicknesses. If your machine chokes on that much fabric, these are just as easy to stitch by hand, and a good "in front of the TV" project. Open out the eight wings. If desired you can hand stitch a small bead between each wing to help them stay open. The final step is to take a 7-8 inch piece of embroidery floss and centering it on the bottom of the ornament, bring it up between the wings. Tie it close to the top of the ornament, and again at the ends of the floss to create a hanger. That's it. Easy-peasey!

“Back Soon”, She said.

Hah! Why are we crafters always such optimists about how much we can accomplish in the run up to the Christmas holiday? I’ve been up to my eyeballs in ornaments, kid’s gifts, gift bags and other assorted holiday themed projects.

And don’t even get me started on the traditional chicken liver biscotti I make for all of Lady’s dog friends.

But today I need to tell you about a project from Christmas past - 2008 to be exact. I recently posted a photo of this ornament on Craftsy.com. Generally I post projects there that have patterns available, but this one didn’t so I’ve decided to make it my holiday gift to you.

Wet Felted Christmas Ornament Pattern

Description:

These wet felted ornaments were crocheted from Peruvian wool and after assembly are decorated with gold and silver metallic or green satin ribbon,  and gold, silver, red and green spangles. The color of the wool is "ivy". The three inch hanger allows each to be suspended from a tree branch or package without the use of an additional hanger. The ornament itself is approximately two inches in diameter.

Skill Level: This pattern is intended for those with intermediate crochet. You will learn to crochet in the round.

Finished Dimensions: Each ornament is approximately 2 inches in diameter and includes a three inch hanger

Gauge: x stitches and d rows – 4 x 4 inch square.

17 stitches and 19 rows hdc = 4 x 4 inch square.

Materials and tools:

1 skein of fingering weight wool yarn.

Note: I used Knit Picks Palette Yarn which comes in an amazing array of colors and at $3.39 per 231yd/50 gm ball, is really affordable. One ball will make several ornaments. Unfortunately I was using up left over yarn from another project, so I can’t be more precise. It is important that this be wool that will felt, so no super-wash or sock yarn. If in doubt ask where you purchase the yarn if it is recommended for wet felting. If using yarn from your stash, make a quick sample swatch and test it following the directions below.

Fiberfill stuffing sufficient to fill the number or ornaments you intend to make.

Narrow ribbon in metallic or satin that is between 3/16 and 3/8 of an inch wide

Assorted sequins and straight pins to hold them in place

Fabric glue

Crochet hook – US size D/3 3.25mm

Stitch markers

Abbreviations used in this pattern

ch – chain

hdc – half double crochet

inc – increase

lp(s) – loop(s)

sk – skip

sl sat – slip stitch

sp(s) – space(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

yo – yarn over

* repeat directions following * as many times as indicated

Special Techniques

Crochet in the Round

Following are my basic instructions for crochet in the round. These instructions should result in a flat circular piece of crocheted “fabric”. If you are already familiar with how to crochet in the round, you can skip this section and go straight to the directions on how to create the bowl shape needed for this ornament.

Even if you have never tried to crochet in the round, with understanding of a few basic stitches, this technique is pretty easy to master. Learn the technique with this simple practice exercise.
ch 3, sl st in first ch to close ring. Draw up tightly.

Row 1: sc eight times in center of ring (total of 8 sc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 2: sc twice in each sc around (total of 16 sc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 3: sc in first sc, sc twice in next sc around (total of 24 sc). Sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 4: sc in first 2 sc, sc twice in next sc around (total of 32 sc). Sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Note: most crochet in the round directions will tell you to continue in the manner increasing 8 stitches in every round (i.e. row 5 would direct you to sc in first 3 sc then sc twice in the 4th and so on). However, with this method of increases you always increase in the same place resulting in the hexagonal rather than rounder shape. Also, I found that for the yarn and hook I used and the tension I maintain on the yarn, the increases were too extreme resulting in what my husband laughingly called the sundial rather than a round shape that will lie flat. Instead, I recommend the following.

Row 5: sc in first 7 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 8), sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 13), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 18), sc in next 7 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 27), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 32), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 37). (total of 38) sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 6: sc in first 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 4), sc in next 9 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 15). Sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 21), sc in first 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 26), sc in next 9 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 37), sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 43). (total of 44 sc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 7 and following: Continue to add six stitches per round and to shift the location of the increase around the circle so that the shape does not become too regular.

If it helps, you can imagine the circle divided into eight pieces of the pie. In each round, six slices of the pie will receive an increase, and two will not. In order to ensure that the increases are distributed evenly but without creating a distinct pattern, the increase should come in pie slice 1 and 5 in the first round, 2 and 6 in the second, 3 and 7 in the third, and so on. Also, the location of the increase within the pie can be varied.

Continue to add rounds until the desired diameter is reached. Also the use of a stitch marker to indicate the beginning/ending of a round may be helpful.

Note: I have worked these directions with single crochet and half double crochet and it works well for either. I have not worked it with longer stitches such as double or triple crochet, but anticipate that it would work much the same. You may need to play with the increases and decreases to achieve exactly the effect you want for your project.

Felting

Here are my generic instructions for wet felting. In the assembly section of this pattern you will find more specific notes for this project.

If this is your first felting project, you might want to make a trial square before beginning to crochet. Make a 4 x 4 inch square using the same yarn, crochet hook, and stitch you intend to use for the project. Most often I use Half Double Crochet for project to be wet felted. A sample will also allow you to check the gauge as mentioned above.

There are many books on felting techniques as well as articles and tutorials online. They don’t all agree any many factors. Do you need to add soap? Should you allow the piece to go through the spin cycle? Should you felt with other laundry items (jeans or towels)? The following is based on my own experience and machine. Felting a trial square will help you to learn what is going to work for you.

The more wet heat, soap and agitation applied to the fabric the smaller and denser it will become. Also the stitches will become less distinct. In general your fabric will shrink more in width (across the row) than it will in length (number of rows). Your target for this project is to shrink your test piece by 25% in width and 13% in height. If you would prefer a lesser degree of felting, keep in mind that the larger size will require modifications to the lining dimensions as well.

Place crocheted items to be felted in a lingerie bag and toss in the wash with a few similarly colored towels or other items that can be washed in hot water. The reason that I use a lingerie bag is to avoid the items from being excessively twisted out of shape, which can happen if another item gets wrapped around it. Also, the bag prevents lint of other items (such as towels) to deposit on the wool. Set the cycle for hot water and maximum agitation. How to accomplish this will vary by machine. In my case I just set the dial to “whites”. Add a normal amount of laundry detergent for the size of load and start machine.

At the completion of the cycle remove the items. If the body is the size you want, you are ready to go. Otherwise, run it through again. Now lay out the items on a towel covered flat surface out of direct sunlight. Shape pieces to square up corners and allow them to dry completely. For flat items I often place them on a baking rack to allow air flow on both sides. Do not use heat or place in dryer as this will result in additional shrinkage and does not allow you to control the shape.

Half Double Crochet (hdc) Stitch

Yarn over hook and insert hook into the next stitch to be worked. Yarn over hook again and pull yarn through stitch. You will now have three loops on the hook. Yarn over hook again and pull loop through all three loops on the hook. This creates one Half Double Crochet stitch.

Crochet Directions for Ornament

Begin as above for crochet in the round. Unlike the example above, you do not want the circle to lie flat but rather to form a cup shape. To accomplish this you will need to reduce the number of increases in each round. The changes from the example begin in row 2.

ch 3, sl st in first ch to close ring. Draw up tightly.

Row 1: hdc eight times in center of ring (total of 8 hdc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1

Row 2: *hdc in next hdc, hdc twice in each hdc* around (total of 12 hdc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1

Row 3: Repeat row 2 (18 hdc)

Row 4: *hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total of 24 hdc) sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1

Row 5: Repeat Row 3 (total of 32 hdc)

Row 6: *hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total of 40 hdc)

Row 7: repeat row 6 (total of 50)

Row 8: *hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total of 60 hdc)

Row 9: repeat row 8

Fasten off and weave in ends. Now repeat these instructions to make the second half of the ball.

Note: if you would like to make a larger ornament, just keep adding rounds following the pattern of increases established above until you achieve a ball that is the size you want. Alternatively, you can use a heavier weight wool and larger hook.

Felting and Assembly Instructions for Ornament

When finished with both halves, wet felt following the directions above until you have achieved a ball of a size and density that is pleasing. Now using matching thread, whipstitch around the two halves to join, stuffing with fiberfill as you go.  Weave in any loose ends.

The final step is to decorate the felted orbs. Cut a piece of ribbon six inches long and thread it through the tapestry needle. Now decide on the location of the top of the ball and pull the ribbon through the top so that half comes out on either side of the stitch. Knot at the top of the ball and at the ends of the ribbon forming your hanging loop. Take a second piece of ribbon that it the right size to go around the ball and cover the seam. Use a dab of fabric glue to hold the ribbon in place. Now pick out some sequins (I generally used at least eight per ornament) and using a straight pin, affix them to the ribbon. If you like you can use a dab of glue on the back of the sequin as well, but I find that the straight pins stick into the fiberfill and don not fall out.

That’s it. I hope you enjoy making this project, and let me know if you have questions.

Felted Bags, Leftovers and Distractions

Since my friend Kim at Knitch sucked me back into working with yarn, I’ve been creating many crocheted and felted projects. In the past I’ve shown you some of the bowls and other home décor pieces. However, as someone with no less than half a dozen projects going at once, I had a real need for project bags. The goal was to keep everything organized in one place, and ready to grab when I needed an on-the-go project. I also had a basket full of yarn left over from other projects – not enough to make anything in any one color, but all similar fiber content and weight.

The perfect synthesis of wet felting, the experience making fabric project bags for sale, and leftovers led me to experiment with crocheted and felted project bags. The first piece was designed "on the fly" while I was traveling home to visit family last fall. I didn’t really have a project in mind, so I threw all my half balls of left over yarn, a few crochet hooks and a pair of embroidery scissors into my carry-on bag. Yes – we can carry scissors on airplanes now as long as they aren’t more than 4 inches long.

The result was this striped bag which was crocheted with no seams. Because I was feeling a bit whimsical, I made the strap a möbius strip. Remember those from school? If not, take a strip of paper and join the ends in a loop after giving one end a half-twist so it joins with the other upside-down. Now try to decide which edge is up and which is down. Fun right? The möbius strip has many applications in crochet and knitting, especially for scarves and shrugs. As a purse strap, it’s a bit impractical, because the strap can’t hang flat on your shoulder – it has a half-twist in it. Still, it was fun to play with in the design.

I’ve also, been experimenting with incorporating hardware into some of the designs – as with this grey bag. I used D-rings to attach the straps to the bag after felting – rather than integrating them into the crocheted design. This bag is big and roomy, and I find myself carrying it as a handbag more than a project bag. It works will with all those black clothes I have to wear to hide the black dog hair!

Magnetic snap closures and metal purse feet are also great additions. The snaps and the feet (these are from the Clover Bag's & Tote's accessories line), are very easy to install. 

The back of the snap, which will show on the front of the flap, can easily be covered by a decorative button, as I have done with this bag.

Crochet hooks have been accumulating around the house at an alarming rate – I now have all but the very largest sizes (N, O, P, Q & S which corresponds to 10.00, 12, 15, 16 and 19 mm respectively). 

Again trying to use up small bits of leftover yarn I started creating some felted hook cases. Here are a couple that hold my aluminum hooks sizes B-K, and the bamboo hooks up to size M (9 mm). I still need a good case for the tiny steel hooks (.9 mm up to 2.55). I think those are going to have to go in something made of fabric though. Otherwise they would always be poking through and tangling up in the felt.

I’m making progress documenting the patterns for all of these and hope to have them in the shop by early next week. My real problem is that a friend has been hosting a “woodworking for ladies” class. It’s hard to stay focused on stitchery when I can be in the shop working on something like this. None of these are mine, but I hope to finish up two boxes tonight, so will have to post some pictures soon. Naturally one of my boxes features scissors and the other one is all about Lady.

Where Have You Been?

Ok. I realize that I’m the one that went missing, but hey. I’m a bit amazed that more two months have passed without a single post. The truth is that I’ve been caught up in the beginning of spring here in Georgia, and writing articles about spring ephemerals on one of my other blogs – Native in the City. I’ve also been busy with new projects including lots of felting, and new adventures in filet crochet and chenille. Setting up a web store on Etsy – check it out at http://www.soubretteart.com/ – to sell some pieces have rounded out the time.

Here are a few of the crocheted and felted bowls, all based around the same basic techniques described in the chair pad project.
The only real difference is that when you feel the base of the bowl is large enough and you want to start building the sides, you simply stop increasing. To create the ruffled edge on a few of the bowls shown here, start increasing again, but double or triple it up. The more you increase, the more exaggerated the ruffle.

Creating the multicolored designs was really fun. This method is sometimes called tapestry crochet, and you just carry the second color along as you crochet and switch colors whenever the mood strikes. There are many good tutorials online that show how to work with two colors. A few include Tapestry Crochet, Chrochet N More, Art of Tangle, and the crochet pages at About.com. As for the flower that adorns the top of the felted bowl cover, I found the pattern on Meilynne’s Yarngear blog.

Unlike the chair pad, which had to dry flat, bowls need to be dried around something that helps them to retain their shape. I used everything from an empty mayonnaise jar to wadded up grocery bags. The whole point here is to be creative and have fun. Some projects will turn out better than others and in the beginning nothing will turn out just the way you expected, but that can be a good thing!

A New Year a New Project, But First…

Seriously, the holidays are a wonderful time, but I’m itching to get back to sewing and writing. It seems I have been consumed with decorating the house, cooking, shopping & wrapping, attending gatherings with family and friends, and then the sad part of breaking it all down and packing it away for another year.

Somewhere in there between Thanksgiving and New Years, I did manage to complete a few projects though, and I need to tell you about them. What have I been up to? Well, mostly tatting, felting, and quilting.

Back in November, I showed you the tatted wreaths that I intended to give away as party favors at our annual holiday party. Well I ended up making wreaths, snowflakes, and icicles (a basic josephine knot with beads). These are exceptionally bad photos because you can’t see any of the detail in the tatting – I’m going to have to figure out how to do better close-ups with my digital camera soon – but they might give you an idea of what is possible for a novice tatter (me).

The felting projects include a chair pad for my office chair, some decorative bowls, and flowers (haven’t decided what to do with those yet). Tomorrow I’ll give you detailed instructions on the felted projects.

As for the quilting, the big project was the wall hanging I turned into a table topper. This dining room table is always piled high with food for our annual holiday party, and I wanted to do something special to decorate the room. As you can see, I have a glass top for this table, and normally I just place a cream colored tablecloth under the glass for the party. This year it occurred to me to us a quilt instead.

I would give you the directions for this but frankly, the design was very closely inspired by a photo on a flyer I received in the mail. I did work out the quilting math on my own to fit my table top, but still feel that I should give credit to the original designer. Unfortunately I can’t find the flyer anywhere, so have no idea who to credit. If anyone recognizes the design, please post a comment, and if you are the designer and want me to provide a link to your pattern, I will be happy to do so.

Anyway, now you know why I was making all of those placemats to practice machine quilting. The star and tree on this quilt are quilted in-the-ditch, and the light colored background is stippled.

I also made a holiday camel ornament for a friend’s party. The theme of the party was “how dry I am” since Georgia has experienced record drought in 2007. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture before I gave it to her. Imagine this guy made out of Sculpey® polymer clay (the stuff you shape and then bake in the oven) and painted gold. He's about three inches across (in your imagination silly). Then imagine a little red and green tatted blanket on his back made out of metallic thread, and a halter made of the same thread. The whole thing was then affixed inside a copper wire hoop (had to learn how to solder for that one), and hung by another hank of metallic thread looped at the top of the copper hoop.

Well that’s a quick update on what I’ve been up to. How about you? Post a comment and let us hear from you. I’m happy to answer questions, or point readers to your own website if you have something to share.