Soothing Shelter Animals

 Pet lover?

My friend Alice isn't a woman I would have described as either a dog person or a cat person. When I first met her our whole circle of friends had dogs and/or cats, and though she never seemed afraid of them, and was concerned for their welfare, she had no real interest in petting or playing with them. Over time that attitude has changed, but I still never expected to hear that she had adopted a trio of stray kittens. Life does indeed still hold surprises!

In addition to our interest in animals, we share of love of crafts. Alice is a bit of a knitting addict, and, as this blog will attest, I'm more than a little obsessed with quilting, and crochet, and, and... This has led us to share back and forth little snippets of interest we find on the Internet about projects and the work of other crafters.

Comfort for Critters

A few weeks ago, Alice circulated a story amongst her crafty friends about Comfort for Critters. This is a wonderful organization that in their own words, "is a 100% volunteer program that creates handmade blankets to comfort homeless pets living in animal shelters. While these animals await adoption, the blankets provide a comfortable bed year-round. When they are adopted, their blanket goes with them, providing something familiar as they adjust to their "forever family." Now don't worry, there is plenty of yarn and fabric in the future of this post, but first a bit more background.

If you have ever volunteered at an animal shelter or rescue, or just visited one to pick out a new companion, you know that a shelter can be a terrifying place for an animal who is lost or has been abandoned for one reason or another. The noise of dogs barking can be deafening, and the smell of chemicals necessary to keep such places safe and sanitary can be overwhelming. Add to this the fact that dogs and cats may be housed in close quarters with animals they do not know, and moved from cage or kennel to kennel as cleaning and adoptions take place. Though shelter staff make heroic efforts to give these unfortunates the care and loving attention they need, it is not uncommon for formerly well adjusted animals to become shut down and depressed.

How do blankets help? 

These blankets are given to an individual animal, and move with them from cage to cage, providing a bit of something soft and warm, and that smells like them. This can be a great comfort in that stressful situation. And when they go to their forever home, the blanket goes with them to ease the transition to yet another new environment.

Comfort for Critters gathers the donated blankets and distributes them to participating shelters, which makes it easy for volunteers to just make the blankets - knitted, crocheted, quilted or sewn of soft fleece - and leave the logistics to someone else. Unfortunately the only shelter on their list in our state (Georgia) isn't all that closeby, and we wanted to do something local.

Act Local

Enter Audrey Shoemaker, the Volunteer Coordinator at Fulton County Animal Services. Fulton County runs a huge shelter with as many as 100 cats and 250 to 300 dogs at any one time. We decided that was much too large a commitment for our small group. However, right now there are only about 30 cats and kittens at the shelter. Finally we decided that we would try to make enough blankets for all of the cats and puppies, plus a few larger blankets for the dogs that are going out to adoption events. And we want to have them all done by the end of February.



We are making progress. Here is the first batch



the blankets for cats and puppies are small - just 20 by 20 inches square. This one is crocheted in a cushy basketweave and used up a bunch of leftover yarn from other projects



This quilt will be for a larger dog, and uses a cute animal print with some flannel borders



Another large dog quilt made out of fleece



Fleece is the obvious choice for a person who wants to participate but doesn't have the skills or time to make something. Just cut fleece to the right size - perhaps use a rotary cutter to make a wavy edge as in this example - and you're done. Fleece doesn't ravel, so no hemming required.



I'm repurposing an old quilt top that I originally pieced as a queen size quilt to be sold for charity. I kind of hated it after it was pieced, so never finished it. Now I'm cutting it up and should have about ten of these puppy quilts ready in no time.



Cute quilt back right?

Join in the fun!

Are you interested in joining us? Shoot me an email at stitchingtimes@gmail.com and I'll coordinate with you on what to make and how to get the finished blankets to me. This really is a labor of love, and something that is so easy to do.

Ornaments Past and Present

For the last several years I've made ornaments each Christmas that reflect a new skill I've learned or as a tribute to an artist I admire. I attach these to packages, give them away as favors at holiday parties and as hostess gifts, and keep a few to hang on our own tree.

 

In 2006 I was interested in needle tatting and made little beaded snowflakes and wreaths

In 2007 I was all about crazy quilting as I worked on a Victorian bed sized quilt similar to an antique one that my mother had from her mother. More on that here.

2008 was the year of wet felting. I was crocheting and wet felting everything in sight. If you would like to try making them, here is the pattern

I guess I must have skipped 2009, but by 2010, I was enamored or an embellishment technique I had learned from an article in Quilting Arts magazine. More on this idea here. 

And again in 2011, I totally stole this technique for a large size reverse trapunto quilt and used it for ornaments. Here is the blog post about the technique.

Last year a friend introduced me to Natalie Chanin, the awesome designer behind Alabama Chanin. After looking at her gorgeous apparel, how could I not make hand sewn cotton jersey ornaments. Natalie offers finished product, kits, and workshops, so take a look at her website.

This year I was a bit stumped for an idea, and then right around Thanksgiving I was looking at an email from Sew Daily right before going to sleep. The message included this image.

I'm one of those crazy people that problem solves in my sleep. Well of course I woke up in the middle of the night with an understanding of how I could make these.

It couldn't be easier. Use stiff double sided fusible interfacing and bond fabric on both sides of a sheet. Use a rotary circle cutter (or draw circles and cut them out by hand). I made mine about 3 1/2 inches. You will need a total of four circles for each ornament, but it you fuse up larger sheets, you can cut multiples of one fabric. I fused fat quarters (or scraps from other projects that were about that size) and was able to get  up to 16 circles out of each bonding effort. If you have a sewing machine that can handle a really thick stack, then stitch two of the circles together right down the middle (I used a vanishing marker to draw a line in the center of each circle from top to bottom). Now fold both of those circles back on themselves to make two sets of wings. Match up the remaining two circles with the previously sewn pieces and stitch down through all thicknesses. If your machine chokes on that much fabric, these are just as easy to stitch by hand, and a good "in front of the TV" project. Open out the eight wings. If desired you can hand stitch a small bead between each wing to help them stay open. The final step is to take a 7-8 inch piece of embroidery floss and centering it on the bottom of the ornament, bring it up between the wings. Tie it close to the top of the ornament, and again at the ends of the floss to create a hanger. That's it. Easy-peasey!

On the Road Again!

It's that time of year and we will soon be heading off to the beach for a week of sun, fishing, and dog play. While busily planning what to pack, dithering about a new swim suit and whether the cover-up covers enough, and the other minutia of vacation prep, I have also planned a good road trip project. Several years ago I became enamored with the idea of non-traditional yarn. First I tried making yarn with grocery store plastic bags. A couple of years later I made a cute bag with fabric scraps and included the instructions for making fabric yarn. This year I'm attacking the fabric scrap box to make rag rug style chair pads.

It couldn't be simpler. First follow the link above to make your yarn. What a great feeling that is for a Yankee-at-heart girl like me to use up all those scraps.
Now select a really large crochet hook. I used my US N/9.00 mm aluminum hook from Boye. Because the quilter's cotton fabric I used tends to be a bit sticky, the slippery aluminum works quite well. A Bamboo hook might offer a bit too much resistance for smooth crocheting.

If you don't remember your crochet in the round technique, take a refresher here. You may have to play with the increases a bit to make sure the pad lies flat. In this first sample I made ten stitches in my first round, doubled each stitch on the 2nd round, doubled every other stitch on the 3rd, ever third stitch on the 4th, etc. And if you find yourself running out of yarn before the chair pad is large enough, don't worry. Just add more strips of fabric as you go along.
A perfect "on the road" project. All you need is a bag of scraps, a crochet hook and a pair of scissors. Enjoy

Guernsey Scarf Update

Remember this scarf? More than a year later I finally wrote up the pattern, so even though I said in my last post that it was the last blast for winter, here is just one more winter weight scarf pattern. Find it on Craftsy.com. If you are looking for an excuse to learn some fancy post stitches, this is a great project for that. Think of it as a sampler where you will learn to crochet three different post stitch patterns - parallel posts, tall cables, and steps.

Now I'm off to work on the pattern for something lightweight and lacy for spring. Stay tuned.

One Last Blast for Winter!

With the temperature predicted to clime to 80 today here in Atlanta, I must be mad to be writing up a pattern for a wool scarf. I guess sometimes I just like to be contrary. The truth is, I finished this scarf at Christmas time, but it was such a simple pattern, it hardly seemed worth writing up. Today though, as I was packing up some of my winter accessories it occurred to me that some of my readers up north are still hearing the wind howl around the corner of the house and watching snow fly by the window. So for all of you, I've written up the pattern and posted it for free on Craftsy.com, and here. If not this spring, perhaps in the fall you will decide to pull out the hook and have a go. Enjoy!

Chunky Ribbed Scarf Pattern

Project Specifications

Description:

Looking for an easy crocheted scarf for beginners? This one couldn’t be simpler.  The whole scarf is made with back loop single crochet and works up in a few hours. Chunky yarn and a large hook size are part of the magic. Best of all, this scarf is extra long so you can wrap it around and around to keep you warm and look fashionable.

Skill Level:

Beginners will learn single crochet stitch and to crochet in back loops.

Finished Dimensions:

Scarf is approximately 5 inches wide and 96 inches long.

Gauge

13 stitches and 15 rows – 4 x 4 swatch

Materials

Yarn

3 skeins KnitPicks[1] Wool of the Andes Bulky (100 grams, 137 yards, bulky weight). This is a 100% Peruvian Highland Wool yarn that can be hand washed and dried flat. The color I used was Vinca.

If unavailable, any bulky weight soft wool yarn will do. On the yarn label look for yarn that calls for size 10-11 knitting needles[2] However, substitution will make checking your gauge even more critical. To achieve the desired dimensions, you may need to go up or down a hook size, and add or decrease the number of stitches and rows to achieve the finished dimensions of the pattern.

Tools:

Crochet hook US size K/10.5 (6.50 mm)

Abbreviations and symbols used in this pattern[3]

bl – back loop

ch – chain

chs – chains

fl – front loop

lps - loops

sc – single crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

tch – turning chain

yo – yarn over

*__ * repeat directions following * as many times as indicated

Special Stitches

The single crochet stitch is quite straightforward. With a foundation chain started, turn back and insert the hook into the 2^nd stitch from the hook. Yarn over from back to front (that is, take the ball yarn and bring it from back to front over the hook) and pull that loop through the chain. You now have two loops on the hook. Yarn over again and draw that loop through the other two loops on your hook. This completes the stitch. When you come to the end of a row, you will turn your work, chain one for height and insert your hook into the first single crochet stitch in the row below, continuing in this manner across the row. 

The back loop single crochet is worked in exactly the same manner with the exception that the stitch is worked in the only the back loop of the stitch below leaving the front loop untouched. As you work back and forth in successive rows, this use of the back loop only will create the ribbed texture of this scarf.

Crochet Directions

Chain 301, turn.

Row 1: sc in 2^nd loop from chain, sc across, turn.

Row 2: *chain 1, sc in bl of first sc. sc in bl across, turn.*

Row 3 - 19: repeat * to *

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing

Generally I would recommend blocking your finished crochet project. However, due to the texture and weight of this scarf, I didn’t find any blocking necessary. If you do find the corners curling a bit and want to block the scarf, try this method. Heat a steam iron to the highest temperature. When it is warm enough to make abundant steam, lay the scarf out flat on your ironing board. Pass the iron a couple of inches above the scarf being careful not to actually touch the fabric. The steam should help to set the shape of the scarf and eliminate curling. Allow the scarf to cool before handling. Also, I generally store hand crocheted scarves loosely doubled and then hung over the rod of a sturdy coat hanger (wood, aluminum, plastic) rather than stuffing it into a drawer or hanging it on a hook. This keeps the weight of the scarf from stretching it too much and helps the scarf to retain its shape

---

[1] KnitPicks is an online store which can be found at www.knitpicks.com

[2] This will correspond to a US size K or M crochet hook, but recommended crochet hook sizes are rarely noted on yarn labels.

[3] This pattern is written in American terminology. For British users, treat single crochet as a double crochet.

W00t

Craftsy Patterns has launched and I have already sold two patterns this morning. What a great way to start the day!

Now back to the salt mines of pattern writing. Arrgh. Love to design; like to make up the samples and photograph them; not so thrilled about writing up the patterns. Today I'm working on the pattern for a crocheted set of hand warmers and a matching cowl or neck warmer. The set is all done up with cute post stitch cables and columns. Pay no attention to the model in the picture. We are going to be working on that before we go to print. In the meantime, go have a look at all of the patterns on Craftsy, or just check out my store!

What a Busy Month It's Been

Finally a chance to catch my breath. Yesterday I even found time to have lunch with a girlfriend -- I had the Cubanito at Super Pan and those that live in Atlanta know why Top Chef, Hector Santiago's sandwich shop is worth writing about -- but I digress.
I've also been quite busy with a new undertaking. I've decided to offer private lessons in crochet. I thought initially to just offer a one-on-one "learn to crochet in two hours" class, and set about putting that together. It turned out to be a more challenging task than I expected. How to limit class to just those very fundamental skills the student must master to go away and make a simple dishcloth or scarf is not easy. But I persevered and came up with a lesson plan that I thought would work.
Now to find some students. While hopscotching around the internet one day I stumbled on a new web service called Betterfly. Though the service is still in beta (that means test mode for non-techies), it is already a fantastic tool for people with expertise to connect with students who want to learn. I listed my "learn to crochet" session, made an announcement on Facebook and my neighborhood electronic message board, and within days had two students. One was a true beginner and the second wanted to book a lesson to address specific problems she was having and learn some new stitches. I now have several private session options set up and after teaching my first two classes, I'm sure I am going to really enjoy this new way of sharing with other crafters.

In between prepping, promoting and teaching classes I have found time for a few quilting projects as well. I'm working away at the hand quilting for this zoo themed baby quilt or play mat. It's hard to tell from this photo, but I'm trying lots of tight echo quilting around the animals so that, when it is washed, they will really pop up. I also used some chocolate brown for borders - partly to make it a bit larger, but mostly to give the quilt a nice soft cuddly edge. The fabric is from the Wild Friends collection by Leslie Grainger for Robert Kaufman. Here's a link to a free pattern from Robert Kaufman which uses the same center panel.

And I've pieced this simple "How the Grinch Stole Christmas" throw (fabric also from Robert Kaufman). I'm not sure if I should admit that it is late for 2011, or just pretend I am way ahead for 2012. But since I'm still pondering how I want to quilt this one (machine or hand; all over design or customized for each vignette) I guess I should go with the latter. Would love to hear quilting suggestions from my quilty friends out there.
Now back to the studio. As much as I might try to convince you that spending time in the studio is hard work, I just can't. I love my job!

“Back Soon”, She said.

Hah! Why are we crafters always such optimists about how much we can accomplish in the run up to the Christmas holiday? I’ve been up to my eyeballs in ornaments, kid’s gifts, gift bags and other assorted holiday themed projects.

And don’t even get me started on the traditional chicken liver biscotti I make for all of Lady’s dog friends.

But today I need to tell you about a project from Christmas past - 2008 to be exact. I recently posted a photo of this ornament on Craftsy.com. Generally I post projects there that have patterns available, but this one didn’t so I’ve decided to make it my holiday gift to you.

Wet Felted Christmas Ornament Pattern

Description:

These wet felted ornaments were crocheted from Peruvian wool and after assembly are decorated with gold and silver metallic or green satin ribbon,  and gold, silver, red and green spangles. The color of the wool is "ivy". The three inch hanger allows each to be suspended from a tree branch or package without the use of an additional hanger. The ornament itself is approximately two inches in diameter.

Skill Level: This pattern is intended for those with intermediate crochet. You will learn to crochet in the round.

Finished Dimensions: Each ornament is approximately 2 inches in diameter and includes a three inch hanger

Gauge: x stitches and d rows – 4 x 4 inch square.

17 stitches and 19 rows hdc = 4 x 4 inch square.

Materials and tools:

1 skein of fingering weight wool yarn.

Note: I used Knit Picks Palette Yarn which comes in an amazing array of colors and at $3.39 per 231yd/50 gm ball, is really affordable. One ball will make several ornaments. Unfortunately I was using up left over yarn from another project, so I can’t be more precise. It is important that this be wool that will felt, so no super-wash or sock yarn. If in doubt ask where you purchase the yarn if it is recommended for wet felting. If using yarn from your stash, make a quick sample swatch and test it following the directions below.

Fiberfill stuffing sufficient to fill the number or ornaments you intend to make.

Narrow ribbon in metallic or satin that is between 3/16 and 3/8 of an inch wide

Assorted sequins and straight pins to hold them in place

Fabric glue

Crochet hook – US size D/3 3.25mm

Stitch markers

Abbreviations used in this pattern

ch – chain

hdc – half double crochet

inc – increase

lp(s) – loop(s)

sk – skip

sl sat – slip stitch

sp(s) – space(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

yo – yarn over

* repeat directions following * as many times as indicated

Special Techniques

Crochet in the Round

Following are my basic instructions for crochet in the round. These instructions should result in a flat circular piece of crocheted “fabric”. If you are already familiar with how to crochet in the round, you can skip this section and go straight to the directions on how to create the bowl shape needed for this ornament.

Even if you have never tried to crochet in the round, with understanding of a few basic stitches, this technique is pretty easy to master. Learn the technique with this simple practice exercise.
ch 3, sl st in first ch to close ring. Draw up tightly.

Row 1: sc eight times in center of ring (total of 8 sc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 2: sc twice in each sc around (total of 16 sc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 3: sc in first sc, sc twice in next sc around (total of 24 sc). Sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 4: sc in first 2 sc, sc twice in next sc around (total of 32 sc). Sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Note: most crochet in the round directions will tell you to continue in the manner increasing 8 stitches in every round (i.e. row 5 would direct you to sc in first 3 sc then sc twice in the 4th and so on). However, with this method of increases you always increase in the same place resulting in the hexagonal rather than rounder shape. Also, I found that for the yarn and hook I used and the tension I maintain on the yarn, the increases were too extreme resulting in what my husband laughingly called the sundial rather than a round shape that will lie flat. Instead, I recommend the following.

Row 5: sc in first 7 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 8), sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 13), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 18), sc in next 7 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 27), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 32), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 37). (total of 38) sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 6: sc in first 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 4), sc in next 9 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 15). Sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 21), sc in first 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 26), sc in next 9 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 37), sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 43). (total of 44 sc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.

Row 7 and following: Continue to add six stitches per round and to shift the location of the increase around the circle so that the shape does not become too regular.

If it helps, you can imagine the circle divided into eight pieces of the pie. In each round, six slices of the pie will receive an increase, and two will not. In order to ensure that the increases are distributed evenly but without creating a distinct pattern, the increase should come in pie slice 1 and 5 in the first round, 2 and 6 in the second, 3 and 7 in the third, and so on. Also, the location of the increase within the pie can be varied.

Continue to add rounds until the desired diameter is reached. Also the use of a stitch marker to indicate the beginning/ending of a round may be helpful.

Note: I have worked these directions with single crochet and half double crochet and it works well for either. I have not worked it with longer stitches such as double or triple crochet, but anticipate that it would work much the same. You may need to play with the increases and decreases to achieve exactly the effect you want for your project.

Felting

Here are my generic instructions for wet felting. In the assembly section of this pattern you will find more specific notes for this project.

If this is your first felting project, you might want to make a trial square before beginning to crochet. Make a 4 x 4 inch square using the same yarn, crochet hook, and stitch you intend to use for the project. Most often I use Half Double Crochet for project to be wet felted. A sample will also allow you to check the gauge as mentioned above.

There are many books on felting techniques as well as articles and tutorials online. They don’t all agree any many factors. Do you need to add soap? Should you allow the piece to go through the spin cycle? Should you felt with other laundry items (jeans or towels)? The following is based on my own experience and machine. Felting a trial square will help you to learn what is going to work for you.

The more wet heat, soap and agitation applied to the fabric the smaller and denser it will become. Also the stitches will become less distinct. In general your fabric will shrink more in width (across the row) than it will in length (number of rows). Your target for this project is to shrink your test piece by 25% in width and 13% in height. If you would prefer a lesser degree of felting, keep in mind that the larger size will require modifications to the lining dimensions as well.

Place crocheted items to be felted in a lingerie bag and toss in the wash with a few similarly colored towels or other items that can be washed in hot water. The reason that I use a lingerie bag is to avoid the items from being excessively twisted out of shape, which can happen if another item gets wrapped around it. Also, the bag prevents lint of other items (such as towels) to deposit on the wool. Set the cycle for hot water and maximum agitation. How to accomplish this will vary by machine. In my case I just set the dial to “whites”. Add a normal amount of laundry detergent for the size of load and start machine.

At the completion of the cycle remove the items. If the body is the size you want, you are ready to go. Otherwise, run it through again. Now lay out the items on a towel covered flat surface out of direct sunlight. Shape pieces to square up corners and allow them to dry completely. For flat items I often place them on a baking rack to allow air flow on both sides. Do not use heat or place in dryer as this will result in additional shrinkage and does not allow you to control the shape.

Half Double Crochet (hdc) Stitch

Yarn over hook and insert hook into the next stitch to be worked. Yarn over hook again and pull yarn through stitch. You will now have three loops on the hook. Yarn over hook again and pull loop through all three loops on the hook. This creates one Half Double Crochet stitch.

Crochet Directions for Ornament

Begin as above for crochet in the round. Unlike the example above, you do not want the circle to lie flat but rather to form a cup shape. To accomplish this you will need to reduce the number of increases in each round. The changes from the example begin in row 2.

ch 3, sl st in first ch to close ring. Draw up tightly.

Row 1: hdc eight times in center of ring (total of 8 hdc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1

Row 2: *hdc in next hdc, hdc twice in each hdc* around (total of 12 hdc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1

Row 3: Repeat row 2 (18 hdc)

Row 4: *hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total of 24 hdc) sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1

Row 5: Repeat Row 3 (total of 32 hdc)

Row 6: *hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total of 40 hdc)

Row 7: repeat row 6 (total of 50)

Row 8: *hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total of 60 hdc)

Row 9: repeat row 8

Fasten off and weave in ends. Now repeat these instructions to make the second half of the ball.

Note: if you would like to make a larger ornament, just keep adding rounds following the pattern of increases established above until you achieve a ball that is the size you want. Alternatively, you can use a heavier weight wool and larger hook.

Felting and Assembly Instructions for Ornament

When finished with both halves, wet felt following the directions above until you have achieved a ball of a size and density that is pleasing. Now using matching thread, whipstitch around the two halves to join, stuffing with fiberfill as you go.  Weave in any loose ends.

The final step is to decorate the felted orbs. Cut a piece of ribbon six inches long and thread it through the tapestry needle. Now decide on the location of the top of the ball and pull the ribbon through the top so that half comes out on either side of the stitch. Knot at the top of the ball and at the ends of the ribbon forming your hanging loop. Take a second piece of ribbon that it the right size to go around the ball and cover the seam. Use a dab of fabric glue to hold the ribbon in place. Now pick out some sequins (I generally used at least eight per ornament) and using a straight pin, affix them to the ribbon. If you like you can use a dab of glue on the back of the sequin as well, but I find that the straight pins stick into the fiberfill and don not fall out.

That’s it. I hope you enjoy making this project, and let me know if you have questions.

Crocheted Sampler Bag

How is it possible that I made this bag, wrote up the pattern and began selling it in July 2010, yet somehow never blogged about it? You’ve got me. I’m forgetful that way.

I designed this bag for a beginners Learn to Crochet class. Back in the day when all young girls were taught needlework, samplers where work projects used to practice various techniques such as a cross-stitch sampler. Hence the name. The project teaches the elements of crochet, including several basic stitches such as Single Crochet, Half Double Crochet and Double Crochet, as well as Seed Stitch, Rib Stitch and a couple of Post Stitches (Basketweave and Tall Cables).

If you already know how to crochet and have mastered basic chains, single and double crochet and finishing off, the fancier stitches are quite simple. Do you know them?

Seed stitch is one of the easiest:

Chain a multiple of 2 stitches +1.

Row 1 – ch 1. *sc in st, sk next st, chain 1” across ending with sc.

Row 2 – turn. chain 1. *ch 1, sk sc, sc in ch* across, ending with ch 1.

Repeat rows 1 and 2.

This pattern can also be worked in hdc, dc or tr

Rib stitch isn’t difficult either:

Chain a multiple of 1.

Row 1 – turn. chain 1. Sc in back loop only across.

Repeat row 1.

This pattern can also be worked in dc.

Post stitches are a bit more challenging, but easy once you get the hang of it. These special stitches are worked around the post of the stitch in the previous row to create texture and interest in the work. To do this you insert your hook on one side of the post and come out on the other, then yarn over and pull a loop back around the post.  You will either be working from front to back to front (called front post double crochet but worked behind the post) or back to front to back (in front of the post).

The front post double crochet (fpdc) is worked as follows:

Yarn over (YO) and insert hook from the front, around the post coming out again at the front. Yarn over again and draw up the loop. Now complete the double crochet as usual. That is YO, draw through two stitches. YO and draw through last two stitches.

For the back post double crochet (bpdc):

YO. Insert the hook from the back, around the post, coming out again at the back. YO and draw up a loop in the back of the work and complete the stitch as normal.

To make the basket weave pattern you simply chain a minimum of 6 stitches then a multiple of 3 stitches +2.

Row 1 – turn. ch 2. dc across.

Row 2 – turn. ch 2. hdc, *3 fpdcs, 3 bpdc; repeat from * to * across, ending with hdc.

Row 3 – turn. ch 2. Hdc, *3 fpdc, 3 bpdc*; repeat from * to * across, ending with hdc.

Row 4: same as row 3.

Row 5: same as row 2.

Repeat rows 2 – 5.

The cable stitch is a bit awkward, but again, once you get the hang of it, pretty easy.

Chain a multiple of 6 stitches +1.

All even rows: turn. ch1. sc across.

Row 1 – turn . ch 1. sc across.

Row 3 – turn ch 1. 2 sc *fpdc around sc 2 rows below, sk sc behind fpdc, sc, fpdc around sc 2 rows below, sk sc behind fpdc, 3 sc*. Repeat from * to * ending with 2 scs.

Row 5 – turn. ch 1. 2 sc, fpdc around fpdc and 2 rows below, sk sc behind fpdc, sc, fpdc around fpdc 2 rows below, sk sc behind fpdc, 3 sk*. Repeat from * to * ending with 2 sc.

Row 7 – turn. ch 1. 2 sc, *fpdc around sc 2 stitches forward and 2 rows below, sk sc behind fpdc, sc, fpdc around sc 2 stitches back and two rows below), sk sc behind fpdc, 3 sc*. Repeat from * to * ending with 2 sc.

Row 9 – turn. ch 1. 2 sc *fpde around fpdc 2 rows below, sc sc behind fpdc, sc, fpdc around fpdc 2 rows below, sk sc behind fpdc, 3 sc*. Repeat from * to * ending with 2 sc.

Repeat rows 4 – 9.

The bag is made up of one block of each of the seven stitch patterns in each of three colors.

I made it up in these bright Rowan Handknit cottons because I already had the pink and I thought it would be fun to add a couple more colors to make it summery and bright. Then I found this adorable retro fabric for a lining. The fabric so reminded me of all those cute mommy and me patterns from McCall’s back in the 50s and 60s.

What’s my favorite thing about this bag? You can roll it up and throw it in your vacation suitcase. When you are ready to pack to come home, you have an extra carry on for all your souvenirs or those precious shells you gathered every morning on the beach. Want to make one for yourself? Find the full pattern here.

Guernsey Scarf

Back in October Jared Flood, (also known as Brooklyn Tweed in yarn circles), released Shelter, an artisanal yarn with Wyoming grown wool from Targhee-Columbia sheep. It is spun in Harrisville, New Hampshire, a town with a long textile history.Knitch, was one of the few yarn shops to receive early shipments of the yarn, and since they are right around the corner from my house, I had to run right in and look. I was quite taken with the color names like Long Johns, Hayloft, and Homemade Jam.

I also was inspired by a pattern Jared designed for a Guernsey wrap.  I knew I wouldn’t wear a wool wrap, but I loved the texture in the design. Of course it was a pattern to knit, and I prefer to crochet as well, so I decided I needed to work out my own design for a crocheted scarf.  

I also was inspired by a pattern Jared designed for a Guernsey wrap.  Though I knew I wouldn't wear a wool wrap, I loved the texture in the design. Also, it was a pattern to knit, and I prefer to crochet, so I needed to work out my own design for a crocheted scarf.
The first version of the scarf was made from a couple of skeins of  Stonehedge Fiber Mill's Shepherd's Wool that I already had. When I design on the fly, I tend to try different patterns, widths, etc. and rip them out until I’m satisfied. That can be tough on yarn, though I must admit the Shepherd’s Wool held up well.
The final design uses a mixture of grit stitch, and three post stitches: vertical ribs, cables and steps. In between each band I inserted horizontal ribs of rear loop single crochet. 

Once I was happy with the design, I wiped up another in the red “Long Johns” color of Shelter. No gifting here. I will wear both often.
To see some of Jared Flood's knit patterns Take a look at Made in Brooklyn or Knits Men Want.