Hah!
Why are we crafters always such optimists about how much we can accomplish in
the run up to the Christmas holiday? I’ve been up to my eyeballs in ornaments, kid’s
gifts, gift bags and other assorted holiday themed projects.
And don’t even get me started on the traditional chicken
liver biscotti I make for all of Lady’s dog friends.
But today I need to tell you about a project from Christmas
past - 2008 to be exact. I recently posted a photo of this ornament on
Craftsy.com. Generally I post projects there that have patterns available, but
this one didn’t so I’ve decided to make it my holiday gift to you.
Wet Felted Christmas Ornament Pattern
Description:
These wet felted ornaments were crocheted from Peruvian wool
and after assembly are decorated with gold and silver metallic or green satin
ribbon, and gold, silver, red and green
spangles. The color of the wool is "ivy". The three inch hanger
allows each to be suspended from a tree branch or package without the use of an
additional hanger. The ornament itself is approximately two inches in diameter.
Skill
Level: This pattern is intended for those with intermediate
crochet. You will learn to crochet in the round.
Finished
Dimensions: Each ornament is approximately 2 inches in diameter and includes a
three inch hanger
Gauge: x stitches and d rows – 4 x 4 inch square.
17 stitches and 19 rows hdc = 4 x 4 inch square.
Materials and tools:
1 skein of fingering weight wool yarn.
Note: I used
Knit Picks
Palette Yarn which comes in an amazing array of colors and at $3.39 per
231yd/50 gm ball, is really affordable. One ball will make several ornaments.
Unfortunately I was using up left over yarn from another project, so I can’t be
more precise. It is important that this be wool that will felt, so no
super-wash or sock yarn. If in doubt ask where you purchase the yarn if it is
recommended for wet felting. If using yarn from your stash, make a quick sample
swatch and test it following the directions below.
Fiberfill stuffing sufficient to fill the number or
ornaments you intend to make.
Narrow ribbon in metallic or satin that is between 3/16 and
3/8 of an inch wide
Assorted sequins and straight pins to hold them in place
Fabric glue
Crochet hook – US size D/3 3.25mm
Stitch markers
Abbreviations used in this pattern
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase
lp(s) – loop(s)
sk – skip
sl sat – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over
* repeat directions following * as many times as indicated
Special Techniques
Crochet in the Round
Following are my basic instructions for crochet in the round.
These instructions should result in a flat circular piece of crocheted “fabric”.
If you are already familiar with how to crochet in the round, you can skip this
section and go straight to the directions on how to create the bowl shape
needed for this ornament.
Even if you have never tried to crochet in the round, with
understanding of a few basic stitches, this technique is pretty easy to master.
Learn the technique with this simple practice exercise.
ch 3, sl st in first ch to close ring. Draw up tightly.
Row 1: sc eight times in center of ring (total of 8 sc). sl
st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.
Row 2: sc twice in each sc around (total of 16 sc). sl st to
first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.
Row 3: sc in first sc, sc twice in next sc around (total of
24 sc). Sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.
Row 4: sc in first 2 sc, sc twice in next sc around (total
of 32 sc). Sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.
Note: most crochet in the round
directions will tell you to continue in the manner increasing 8 stitches in
every round (i.e. row 5 would direct you to sc in first 3 sc then sc twice in
the 4th and so on). However, with this method of increases you always increase
in the same place resulting in the hexagonal rather than rounder shape. Also, I
found that for the yarn and hook I used and the tension I maintain on the yarn,
the increases were too extreme resulting in what my husband laughingly called
the sundial rather than a round shape that will lie flat. Instead, I recommend
the following.
Row 5: sc in first 7 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 8), sc
in next 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 13), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in
next sc (stitch 18), sc in next 7 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 27), sc in
next 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 32), sc in next 3 sc, sc twice in next
sc (stitch 37). (total of 38) sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1.
Row 6: sc in first 3 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 4), sc
in next 9 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 15). Sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in
next sc (stitch 21), sc in first 4 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 26), sc in
next 9 sc, sc twice in next sc (stitch 37), sc in next 4 sc, sc twice in next
sc (stitch 43). (total of 44 sc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch
1.
Row 7 and following: Continue to add six stitches per round
and to shift the location of the increase around the circle so that the shape
does not become too regular.
If it helps, you can imagine the circle divided into eight
pieces of the pie. In each round, six slices of the pie will receive an
increase, and two will not. In order to ensure that the increases are
distributed evenly but without creating a distinct pattern, the increase should
come in pie slice 1 and 5 in the first round, 2 and 6 in the second, 3 and 7 in
the third, and so on. Also, the location of the increase within the pie can be
varied.
Continue to add rounds until the desired diameter is
reached. Also the use of a stitch marker to indicate the beginning/ending of a
round may be helpful.
Note: I have worked these directions
with single crochet and half double crochet and it works well for either. I
have not worked it with longer stitches such as double or triple crochet, but
anticipate that it would work much the same. You may need to play with the
increases and decreases to achieve exactly the effect you want for your
project.
Felting
Here are my generic instructions for wet felting. In the
assembly section of this pattern you will find more specific notes for this
project.
If this is your first felting project, you might want to
make a trial square before beginning to crochet. Make a 4 x 4 inch square using
the same yarn, crochet hook, and stitch you intend to use for the project. Most
often I use Half Double Crochet for project to be wet felted. A sample will
also allow you to check the gauge as mentioned above.
There are many books on felting techniques as well as
articles and tutorials online. They don’t all agree any many factors. Do you
need to add soap? Should you allow the piece to go through the spin cycle?
Should you felt with other laundry items (jeans or towels)? The following is
based on my own experience and machine. Felting a trial square will help you to
learn what is going to work for you.
The more wet heat, soap and agitation applied to the fabric
the smaller and denser it will become. Also the stitches will become less
distinct. In general your fabric will shrink more in width (across the row)
than it will in length (number of rows). Your target for this project is to shrink
your test piece by 25% in width and 13% in height. If you would prefer a lesser
degree of felting, keep in mind that the larger size will require modifications
to the lining dimensions as well.
Place crocheted items to be felted in a lingerie bag and
toss in the wash with a few similarly colored towels or other items that can be
washed in hot water. The reason that I use a lingerie bag is to avoid the items
from being excessively twisted out of shape, which can happen if another item
gets wrapped around it. Also, the bag prevents lint of other items (such as
towels) to deposit on the wool. Set the cycle for hot water and maximum
agitation. How to accomplish this will vary by machine. In my case I just set
the dial to “whites”. Add a normal amount of laundry detergent for the size of
load and start machine.
At the completion of the cycle remove the items. If the body
is the size you want, you are ready to go. Otherwise, run it through again. Now
lay out the items on a towel covered flat surface out of direct sunlight. Shape
pieces to square up corners and allow them to dry completely. For flat items I
often place them on a baking rack to allow air flow on both sides. Do not use
heat or place in dryer as this will result in additional shrinkage and does not
allow you to control the shape.
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Stitch
Yarn over hook and insert hook into the next stitch to be
worked. Yarn over hook again and pull yarn through stitch. You will now have three
loops on the hook. Yarn over hook again and pull loop through all three loops
on the hook. This creates one Half Double Crochet stitch.
Crochet Directions for
Ornament
Begin as above for crochet in the round. Unlike the example
above, you do not want the circle to lie flat but rather to form a cup shape.
To accomplish this you will need to reduce the number of increases in each
round. The changes from the example begin in row 2.
ch 3, sl st in first ch to close ring. Draw up tightly.
Row 1: hdc eight times in center of ring (total of 8 hdc). sl
st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1
Row 2: *hdc in next hdc, hdc twice in each hdc* around
(total of 12 hdc). sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1
Row 3: Repeat row 2 (18 hdc)
Row 4: *hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total
of 24 hdc) sl st to first stitch in previous round. Ch 1
Row 5: Repeat Row 3 (total of 32 hdc)
Row 6: *hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total
of 40 hdc)
Row 7: repeat row 6 (total of 50)
Row 8: *hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* around (total
of 60 hdc)
Row 9: repeat row 8
Fasten off and weave in ends. Now repeat these instructions
to make the second half of the ball.
Note:
if you would like to make a larger ornament, just keep adding rounds following
the pattern of increases established above until you achieve a ball that is the
size you want. Alternatively, you can use a heavier weight wool and larger
hook.
Felting and Assembly Instructions for Ornament
When finished with both halves, wet felt following the
directions above until you have achieved a ball of a size and density that is
pleasing. Now using matching thread, whipstitch around the two halves to join,
stuffing with fiberfill as you go. Weave
in any loose ends.
The final step is to decorate the felted orbs. Cut a piece
of ribbon six inches long and thread it through the tapestry needle. Now decide
on the location of the top of the ball and pull the ribbon through the top so
that half comes out on either side of the stitch. Knot at the top of the ball
and at the ends of the ribbon forming your hanging loop. Take a second piece of
ribbon that it the right size to go around the ball and cover the seam. Use a dab
of fabric glue to hold the ribbon in place. Now pick out some sequins (I
generally used at least eight per ornament) and using a straight pin, affix
them to the ribbon. If you like you can use a dab of glue on the back of the
sequin as well, but I find that the straight pins stick into the fiberfill and
don not fall out.
That’s it. I hope you enjoy making this project,
and let me know if you have questions.
The blog hop organized by Michelle at the Quilting Gallery continues all week, so hop on over and check it out.So far it's been pretty amazing. I can't believe how many new folks have visited my blog as a result. But even more fun, I've been working my way through Michelle's list of nearly 250 bloggers that are participating with give-aways. What a treat to find so many talented quilters who blog. 
When finished with both halves, wet felt following the
directions above until you have achieved a ball of a size and density that is
pleasing. Now using matching thread, whipstitch around the two halves to join,
stuffing with fiberfill as you go. Weave
in any loose ends.
